Nouakchott, Capital of Mauritania and Port du Pêche

Imagine waking up in a hotel, pulling back the curtains, and being greeted by a city seemingly devoured by the desert, where small dunes are forming at the corners of the streets. This was how my first full day in Nouakchott, the chaotic capital of Mauritania, began. The impossible contrast between modernity and traditional Bedouin life left me speechless as I sipped my first morning tea. After arriving the night before, tired from the journey yet excited, I now felt that familiar thrill in my stomach—the sensation of embarking on an extraordinary adventure. And indeed, it was going to be extraordinary, especially when I first laid eyes on that stunning Port du Pêche at sunset.

But let's take it step by step. As I explored the surroundings of the hotel, I felt the pulse of the city with its traffic and contrasts, getting to know my travel group. We needed to break the ice before diving into the adventure that awaited us in the desert.

Exploring the Day's Route: Nouakchott

🏨 Advance Planning and Reservations

On this trip, I am journeying with Leti Lagarda and the extraordinary agency of Joan Torres, known for specializing in unusual and unconventional destinations. Be warned: their groups fill up months (sometimes many months) in advance.

The day's route has been similar to this (Click Google Maps)...

What are the options for getting around Nouakchott?

Getting Around Nouakchott

Moving around Nouakchott is an experience in itself. Yellow taxis are ubiquitous and a practical option for medium distances, but negotiation is a must and part of the local game. The more adventurous can opt for shared taxis that offer a full immersion into local life. Walking can be a good way to explore specific areas, but the heat and the city's vastness often make it less viable.

In our case, our journey with Against The Compass EXPEDITIONS begins with a welcome dinner tonight, but our guide, Leti Lagarda, will be available from midday for those who arrive early. In any case, here are the main options:

• Yellow taxi: These are the most common and relatively safe. The price usually ranges from €2 to €4 for trips within the city, but ALWAYS negotiate before getting in. When we say negotiate, we mean haggle as if your life depends on it.
• Shared taxi: More economical (around €0.5 to €1 per trip) but requires knowledge of the routes and a willingness to share space with strangers, mysterious packages, and sometimes a goat. Yes, you read that right.
• On foot: For short distances and only when it's not too hot, this is an option to truly get to know the city. Just prepare to be the center of attention and for sand to invade every corner of your shoes.

💡 PRACTICAL TIP: Navigating Nouakchott can be tricky as many streets lack visible names or are known differently by locals. If you venture out on your own, jot down your hotel’s name and location in French or Arabic to find your way back easily. And if the taxi driver says "no problem, my friend," you might have a problem.

A Glimpse into the History and First Impressions of Nouakchott

I wanted to immerse myself in the atmosphere of Nouakchott. And boy, did I immerse myself... but mostly in dust. The first step outside the blessed air conditioning was like a slap of dry heat and fine sand that gets everywhere.

Stepping out of the comfort of the AC was like entering a different world. The heat and dust instantly reminded me I was on the brink of the Sahara. Thankfully, the hotel security guard helped me with my scarf because I was still clueless!

The City Fighting Against the Desert

Nouakchott is a young capital, founded in 1958, and seems to have grown more out of necessity than planning. Its character is unique, somewhat disordered and vibrant. What struck me most, now in broad daylight, were those small sand dunes that colonize the corners. "Have you noticed? It's like the Sahara is trying to eat the city!"

I wasn't far off. Nouakchott is engaged in a daily battle against the encroaching desert, something I had never observed in another capital. It's true: "Here, don’t worry about whether they clean the streets; worry about whether your street will exist tomorrow or turn into a dune."

The Traffic: Chaos or Choreography?

The traffic is a spectacle in itself, worthy of study. A surreal mix of ramshackle cars that seem held together by wire, kamikaze yellow taxis, motorcycles appearing where there seems to be no room, and donkey carts transporting everything in the middle of downtown!

"Are we sure we’re not on the set of a Sahara version of Mad Max?" It was an incomprehensible chaos for me, but locals navigated it with astonishing calm.

Colors, Smells, and Sounds

The city's color palette ranges from ochre to yellow, passing through every imaginable shade of dust. That "I-need-a-shower-now" color is predominant. The buildings are mostly low, interspersed with governmental structures and more modern hotels. Only the mosques, with their minarets, seem to follow a predefined plan, serving as beacons in the urban landscape.

And the smells... Ah, the smells! An intense sensory symphony: spices, dust, exhaust fumes, meat roasting at street stalls, and, in the background, the sweet aroma of mint tea, the olfactory soundtrack of the country. Every step confirmed: I am very, VERY far from home. And, curiously, I love that feeling.

The People and Their Attire

What caught my attention was how traditional dress is the daily norm, not a tourist costume. Most men wore the daraa (a wide tunic, usually blue or white) and a turban. I saw this with the drivers from our agency, with whom I chatted a bit about what I could expect starting tomorrow. Everything was ready!

Many women, on the other hand, wore colorful melfas, those long fabrics that wrap them with incredible elegance. "And here we are in trekking pants, looking like Decathlon ads." It reflects the cultural authenticity still palpable in the air.

Dining at Tafarit: One of the Best Places for Fish in Nouakchott

It's around noon, and I’m invited for tea (a must-do ritual) by the hotel café—be prepared for three rounds, but I’ll tell you more about that later—when some members of the group began to appear in the hotel lobby. A WhatsApp from Leti Lagarda, our guide (from A Coruña, like me), summoned us to lunch if we were interested at a nearby spot.

Our Experience at Tafarit

Along with those mentioned, Jack, Zach (who will be my roommate for the entire trip), and Nina have arrived, along with Leti Lagarda. Thanks to her, even though the trip hasn’t officially started, our cars are ready for us, and we head to Tafarit (Maps), a nearby restaurant known for serving the day’s fish, grilled and accompanied by local rice and vegetables.

The fish was fresh, perfectly cooked. Wow! It was spectacular! Others in the group ordered shrimp and squid platters, and some even went for pizzas and exotic drinks. Still, we all agreed that the quality was excellent. The restaurant specializes in seafood, which is highly representative of Mauritania, famous for its coastline and fishing. The atmosphere was simple but cozy, with very reasonable prices for the quality offered (this meal is not included in the trip and costs around €12-15 per person, including drinks).

Beach and Fish Market (Port du Pêche): An Unexpected Great Sunset

The afternoon was spent getting to know each other; some enjoyed the pool while sharing thoughts about our expectations for the trip until the temperature dropped a bit, allowing us to head out. Meanwhile, the last members arrived: Belinda, Idrisi, Arjun, Bastian, and Frida. We were ready!

The Beach of Nouakchott: Between Two Worlds

Leti, sensing she’s a “fantastic Tour Leader,” decided we’d go for a "walk" along the beach of Nouakchott, close by but with a different atmosphere.

But... what is this? WHAT A VIBE! The beach stretches for kilometers. Young people were playing football, families picnicking, and children splashing around. "Nouakchott means 'the place of winds.' And yes, a constant breeze alleviates the heat and shapes the sand. Walking there felt almost meditative, with the sound of the waves and the distant city, but I never expected to see such a burst of people enjoying a Friday evening.

💡 PRACTICAL TIP: The beach of Nouakchott is great for unwinding. However, it’s not touristy: no services, no beach bars, and no loungers. It’s a natural and local social space. Strong currents mean don’t swim if there are no locals doing so. Respect the culture: modest swimwear is necessary, as it’s a conservative country.

The Fish Market of Nouakchott: More Than Meets the Eye

But I was not prepared to lose myself among camels, groups of locals, and boats moored on the beach. The Port du Pêche, the famous fish market of Nouakchott, left me fascinated. "Prepare for something different," Leti warned. "From the desert to the ocean. Mauritania is pure contrast."

The Port du Pêche is not an ordinary market; it’s a fishing community in action: a beach where dozens of colorful boats (pirogues) arrive non-stop, unloading, processing, and selling in an indescribable frenzy. The visual spectacle: blue, yellow, and green boats on the golden sand, the blue Atlantic. Hundreds of people in an apparent chaos with internal logic.

"One of the most active fish markets in West Africa," Leti said. The smell: salt, fresh fish (and not so fresh), fuel... It was striking to see the boats arrive and run aground on the sand. Teams of men unload at full speed, passing enormous tunas in a human chain to containers with ice. Precision choreographed! From there, into the bustling market, between sections of women cleaning and filleting with surgical skill, fish drying in the sun, and retail stalls...

"Here you see the whole cycle," Leti said. "From sea to plate. No intermediaries, no big corporations. Just as it has always been done." I observed a massive swordfish (around 100 kg!). The proud fisherman, buyers examining, shouts in Hassaniya, tension... Fascinating was the section for cephalopods. Women working efficiently and cheerfully, transforming octopuses and squids into market-ready products. An older lady clad in a colorful melfa and a contagious smile... However, let’s not talk about sanitation.

"Did you know Mauritania has one of the richest fishing zones in the world?" Leti said. "The cold Canary current and the continental slope create perfect conditions. It’s a treasure trove." After a good while, with my shoes in critical condition, it was time to leave. We might discuss the slavery that still exists in Mauritania and can be perceived in places like this another time, right?

💡 PRACTICAL TIP: For the fish market: wear clothes that can get dirty. There will be splashes! Closed shoes (unless you enjoy feeling strange things between your toes). And forget about "personal space"; here, the rules of proximity apply.

Unexpected Sunset at the Beaches of Nouakchott

With Antonio and Ehedi, with whom I’ve formed a good friendship, we walked back along our path with Leti, who continued sharing first anecdotes and adventures. But it was inevitable to stop and watch that marvelous and unexpected sunset, an explosion of oranges and reds over the Atlantic.

There’s a story that says this beach used to be further away. The desert is advancing towards the sea, and the sea is responding. An eternal conversation between two giants. A poetic observation that sums up Mauritania: a country defined by natural forces in dialogue (desert, ocean, wind, sun) and its inhabitants ingeniously adapting. And the group was beginning to realize this.

I cannot explain it, but I feel a profound sense of closure...

Restaurant Al Fantasía: Breaking the Ice with the Group

The Restaurant Al Fantasía (Maps) is one of the highest-rated dining establishments in Nouakchott, known for blending African, Moroccan, and Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on traditional dishes and contemporary fusions. This is where Leti and the owner of our agency, Baba, will tell us "what's going to happen" in the coming days, alongside treating us to a welcome dinner.

On the table appeared a whole array of dishes, including traditional Mauritian specialties and a selection of Moroccan and Mediterranean dishes, like tagines and stews with lamb, as well as grilled meats, seafood, and vegetarian options that leverage fresh, local ingredients. I can't tell you the prices just yet as we are starting our journey with Against The Compass EXPEDITIONS, and since logistical and culinary arrangements across the country are challenging, we have all meals "included".

Getting to Know the Group and Currency Exchange

This was the first moment when the expedition group was complete, guides included, and it was fascinating to observe the great vibe and positive energy that filled the air. The group is young, and I would even venture to say that alongside Jack, I’m one of the oldest. There’s one Irish, three Germans, one Dutch, two from the USA with Moroccan roots, three Spaniards + Leti—one living in Dubai, another from Murcia, and curiously, Leti and I from A Coruña—one Indian, and one Canadian.

More international impossible!

One of the first practical matters we resolved was exchanging local currency (Ouguiyas - MRU) at the best rate, though we won’t need much (many exchanged €50 or €100, I exchanged a bit more, €150), and acquiring a Mauritanian SIM card. As for the SIM, the main operators are Moov, Mattel, and Chinguitel; however, once you leave the capital, Moov is the one that works best. I brought along a couple of eSIM from Nomad and Sim Options because unfortunately, my Holafly Plans hasn’t reached here yet—check the status when reading this.

Return to the Nouakchott Hotel

After some essential tips (dress in layers, apply sun protection generously, and manage your water supply), laughter, and initial conversations, we walked back to the hotel, stopping by some makeshift shops run by women along the road.

While most of the group headed to their rooms, others of us improvised a "pre-adventure" party at the bar with a toast of VERY SWEET tea and that mix of anticipation and nervousness that precedes great adventures.

Mauritania welcomed me with its particular chaos, its mix of tradition and half-modernity, and that different rhythm that forces you to slow down. Nouakchott has been just the appetizer, intense and revealing, but merely the beginning. That night, I would sleep with the distant murmur of the city and excitement coursing through my veins. Upon awakening, we would venture into the true Sahara. Nouakchott would only have been the gateway to a story that promises great adventures.

Isaac, from Nouakchott (Mauritania)

Azoueigua Dune and Picnic in Akjoujt

Terjit Oasis and Mhaireth Palm Grove Guide

Chinguetti Ouadane and the ancient desert libraries

Si quieres conocer otros artículos parecidos a Nouakchott, Capital of Mauritania and Port du Pêche puedes visitar la categoría Blog.